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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.